I'm your host Chris Onthank and welcome to the Canine Master Radio Show on Pet Life Radio. Today, we're going to talk about how to help and change the behavior of a fearful puppy. Having a dog that is fearful can be really stressful, emotional for everyone involved. It's a problem I see all the time in my practice, but there are things we can do to help a puppy that is fearful and make them more comfortable in their environment. If we follow these things, many times we're very successful.
In every puppy class, I will generally or usually or many times see a puppy that is a bit timid and fearful. He's withdrawn, he's hiding behind the chair, hiding away from everybody. He's shaking. His tail's tucked. Now he looks absolutely miserable being in that puppy class. Then, there's all these other puppies running around saying, "Hey, what's wrong with you?" And all running up, and he's getting even more fearful and more withdrawn. Then, the owner picks up the puppy and takes them out of the situation and says, "Oh my gosh, my puppy is miserable in this class. What are we going to do? This is not the right environment." Unfortunately, it probably is the right environment, but many times we're going about it the wrong way. How did the dog get this way? Well, sometimes it's lack of socialization, when the puppy was even younger, five weeks, six weeks, seven weeks old. You get the puppy at eight weeks and the puppy hasn't been around different sights and sounds and different situations.
Perhaps. It was a harsh correction from either one of the owners or even a loud noise that it got imprinted to when it was really, really young. It might even be, and one of the number one reasons that I see a lot of is, it's the mom, the mother of the dog. Many times the mother could be very reactive and could be a fearful dog herself, which makes her own puppies fearful and reactive as well. She, basically is the most imprintable figure to the puppies. They're the ones that the puppies are really reading their mom, they're seeing their mom as the leader. So if you have a reactive mother and the mother is barking at everything and reacting and whining, and anxious, pretty soon those puppies are going to be the same way. They're going to start reacting to every sight and sound that's going along.
So you know, if you have a litter of puppies with a reactive mom, well, the first thing I'm going to tell you is you should probably reevaluate your breeding program, if you're a breeder. Make sure, if in fact you do have a mother that's gotten reactive during the time of having her pups, which is also can be quite normal. What I would do is, make sure that the mother and the pups are in an area of the house or kennel and make sure that they're isolated where there's not a lot of sights and sounds and commotion going on around them. This can make for a much calmer environment for the puppies to be raised in. Then, what I would do is at about seven weeks of age, at about seven weeks of age, I then, would actually separate the mother away from the puppies, and put the puppies in a different environment. If you can, and you're a breeder, and you have another mother wandering around, another bitch, one wandering around the premises, put the puppies with that female.
Put them with a more confident dog to help counter what has happened with the mother in the past. I recently worked with a dog who had no socialization until it went to its new owner at 14 weeks. This is really a tough situation, and you can change it, but it's much harder. So what does imprinting mean? You hear this all the time. It's puppy imprint time. Well, fear imprint time for puppies is between five to 16 weeks. That's generally when puppies can be made or broken, in my estimation. In my experience, I have seen puppies that are 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 weeks have an issue and we can actually change it. But during this stage of psychological development, a bad experience can result in a lifelong phobia. If your dog was to walk up to an adult dog and be attacked during that time, your puppy walks up to an adult dog at the, let's say the dog park and the dog gets aggressive to them, your dog may be imprinted for life because it was one of the primary or first imprints that it received.
Another thing is, when is the best time to have to ship a puppy? There's some research done that around eight weeks of age is the best time in the puppy's development to actually be shipped or be picked up and taken away from the mother. At 10 weeks, there are some studies out there that indicate that at 10 weeks, a puppy, is not a great time to ship a puppy because it becomes highly sensitive to changes and it goes through a big fear time. I don't know if it's actually true, but many times think that this time the puppy-hood is, is a lot less moldable during that imprint time. If you take a puppy away from the mother at six weeks of age, it can be a bad decision, because too young, the puppy didn't get enough learning about bite inhibition and learning how to share things with its siblings. Being around its siblings is very important as well as, especially in the very beginning of imprint.
I would make sure that the puppy's at least eight weeks old and don't take a puppy that is six weeks old, even if they're saying, "Take the puppy." I would be apprehensive about taking a puppy that's six weeks old, because a lot of times those puppies become dog-aggressive later on in life and defensive. We can see a wonderful dog at six weeks of age and then many people go, "Oh well, we're done with the imprint time. 16 weeks, four months, imprint's over. Childhood's over." Well you know what, that may be true, but also, it's interesting. I would say almost as important as that imprint time, is up to six to eight months of age. Just because we talk about imprint or fear imprint. If my dog has never met a large dog by the age of four months old, my puppy is still imprinting. If my dog walks up to a large Great Dane and I have a, I don't know, a little Schnauzer and the Great Dane gets aggressive to my Schnauzer at 17, 18 19 weeks, that was the first experience my dog had with a large dog.
So that is an imprint. I always tell people, the imprinting continues because it's the first experience. I always say, If I go to a restaurant and I've had a bad meal the first time I go, I'll never go back to that restaurant again. But if I've been around going to a restaurant for years and then I have a bad meal, will I go back to that restaurant? Chances are I will. So, first imprints are the longest lasting, where if I have a situation that happens later on and I've been well imprinted to many situations, that usually is not going to have the adverse effect. So, we still at age four, five, six, seven, eight, nine-months of age, we still need to protect our puppies. It's not natural. Even going back here, it's not even natural for a puppy to leave its mother at eight weeks of age. This is really not normal.
Wolves will stay with their mothers for up to a year, a year and a half, and even longer. So here we go. We take this puppy away from its owner. We give it to the new family. They go to the dog park with the puppy at eight weeks old and the puppy has a bad experience. Well, and I was at a dog park last year with one of my client's dogs and next to me was another one of my client's dogs, and they had a little bit of a ... It was a Jack Russell Terrier that was a tyrant in the dog park. I heard the guy with the Jack Russell, as the Jack Russell was terrorizing this little puppy. The guy with the Jack Russell said," Hey, no, let them work it out. Let him stand on his own four paws.." This is terrible advice. Would you let your toddler go to the playground and play with nine and 10 year-old boys and let them work it out?
No. You pick your toddler up and take them out of the situation and you'd say, "Hey, wait a second. I'm going to protect my toddler." Well, you need to do the same thing with your puppy. I don't care if your puppy is seven months old. You need to be there for your puppy. Okay? And not let them work it out and figure out who's boss and they need to work this situation out. Because many times these are first imprints, and we want to make sure a new situation is always dealt with in a very positive way. So imprint has a lot more to do with experience than it does with age, and how much I have exposed my dog to those variables or triggers are your imprint experience. So again, I want to bring my dog to as many different dogs as I can, as many different situations and do it over and over and over again.
If I see that it's a dangerous situation or I'm not sure of the situation, I'm going to make sure I'm going to protect my little pup, even until where he's a year old, I'm still going to do the same thing. So, I can't tell you how important this is. We need to guide and protect them until they're about a year old is what I would say, and even longer if it's a first imprint. All right. I'm much more likely to be able to identify and modify a reaction between five to 16 weeks and reverse it, than I am as a dog gets older.
Let's talk about that fear imprint time. That fear imprint time, is a timeframe, in which we can actually change a puppy. Let me give you a perfect example. I had Doberman Pinscher that I bred. Her name was Leather. Leather, when she was about four weeks old I found out that Leather, anytime I picked her up, she would shake and it was weird. Anytime I held her, she would shake.
So I was like, "Wow, I think I may have a problem here. I have a dog that doesn't like to be touched or held." I want to make sure that I counter-condition this. You know what I did was, every time I picked up Leather, I gave her some raw hamburger meat and I'd pick her up and I'd feed her raw hamburger meat. Within a week, this dog loved to be picked up. Well, I continued doing this for a few weeks. Do you know, in the end I ended up keeping Leather and Leather was the most cuddly dog on the face of the planet, because every time I picked her up, I fed her that raw hamburger and she remembered that later on and it became a really good feeling. So, Leather, literally would cuddle with me all the way to the time she was 12 years old when she passed away, and was a great dog. I was able to change that reaction that she had when she was a puppy because I counter-conditioned it before the age of 16 weeks.
If I had waited until five months to do that, I may not have had been as successful. I still would have helped, but it would not have been as successful as if I had done this before the age of 16 weeks. So, reactivity can be changed during that time, but how a dog reacts to a trigger after that, we can still counter-condition, but not like we can during imprint time. The reaction will not happen as easily if we take care of this before, between eight to 16 weeks.
All right. Another example I want to tell you about. Years ago I had a guy that came to me and he wanted me to puppy test a litter of Labrador Retrievers, that he wanted one of these dogs for search and rescue work. So he brought me to a breeder who was known to breed dogs for search and rescue.
We had gone through all the puppies and tested them all, and we had found that one of the puppies was really perfect, except when I did the elevation tests where I put the dog on an elevated area, he actually started to shake and got fearful. So the guy asked me, "Oh my God, this dog is just fabulous. I love the temperament of this dog. I love the drive of this dog, but he's scared of elevated areas. What am I going to do?" I said, "Well, you know what? He's 49 days old. There's a lot we can do and I think we can fix it." What we did was, he took the puppy and I said, "Listen, we can change this. We can make him love elevated areas." What he did was, that every time he put the dog up on an elevated area, he started feeding him on an elevated area. He brought the dog on elevated areas every day and did great things and took that trigger and combined it with something good, something called counter-conditioning.
Pretty soon that dog loved to be on elevated area and he was no longer petrified. He actually loved to go up there because great things happen when he was at elevated areas. What's really interesting. This dog ended up going to to be a search and rescue dog down in Manhattan on 9-11, by the Twin Towers, and he became one of the most successful search and rescue teams down there. I saw him later, years later, I don't know, maybe about three or four years ago, and he told me that his dog, that I had picked out for him, ended up being the best search and rescue dog he'd ever had. That was because we had, we really had changed his reaction and he never, ever was scared to go in elevated areas.
So, what happens to a fearful puppy if he's not fixed? Well, the answer is, many times that fearful puppy will have a miserable life. He won't be a puppy that's social. He'll stay away from everybody. He may bond to a few people, but he may not bond anybody at all.
Many times, this fear will turn and lead to aggression. I can't tell you how many times I see that. The dog will be very, very reactive. We will see the dog barks at everything, many times has anxiety, is not a really a happy dog. Many times we see dogs that are reactive like this, and fearful like this. They tend to die younger from dis-ease. Break out your word, dis-ease. They don't have a long and healthy life. A lot of times they get sick. That happens with people as well. What do we do if we have a puppy that is fearful and we've just gotten them? "Oh my gosh, we picked the wrong puppy, but he's fearful". Well, there is some hope here. Hopefully if you've gotten the puppy before the age of 16 weeks or four months, but even if you haven't, there's still things we can do. What you want to look for, is when you get a fearful puppy, let's look at the triggers.
What's making that puppy fearful? What situations? Is that new environments? Is it new people? Is it strange people? Is it big people? Is it people with hats? Is it other dogs? If he sees another dog as a dog, does the dog freak out? Is it the whole world? I've seen that too. Everything. I have a client that's brought their pups in my puppy class a few years ago, the dog was 12 weeks old. The dog's name was Bella, and Bella was growling and going after her son. She had a nine year-old son, and when that son would go after a ball, the dog would become reactive and growl. If the dog got ahold of some food, the dog would become reactive. The veterinarian told this client of mine, she actually to euthanize the puppy. He said "There's really nothing you can do. This puppy should be euthanized. This isn't normal behavior."
Huh? Funny thing was I said, "Hey listen, give me the puppy." Because I knew that this woman didn't have the time or the money to be doing lessons with me every day to fix this dog. So I said, "Why don't you give the puppy to me and let me have the puppy for two weeks?" We took the puppy at the Canine Center and you know what? We fixed the puppy. We did a lot of behavior modification work. We did a lot of redirecting and we did a lot of confidence-building. This dog has ended up to be a fabulous dog and all those issues disappeared. To say the least, I think is veterinarian refers me more than any veterinarian I know of ,because we actually Dog On Smart, and the Canine Center, we fixed the dog and he had actually recommend euthanizing the dog. So that was really cool.
But, puppies that are fearful of environments and owners, there's an initial step that's really important. The first step is to desensitize the dog to the triggers. That's the first thing we do. When a dog is fearful, we need to desensitize. The thing is, many people will start out doing what we call counter-conditioning and counter- conditioning is when I pair a trigger with something good like food. But unfortunately, many fearful dogs won't eat if they're nervous or scared. So, by doing desensitizing, we can get the dog to relax around the triggers and then we can do our counter-conditioning. So, those are the first steps that you take.
You desensitize first by putting the dog behind you. How do you desensitize? Well, desensitizing him by removing the trigger far enough from the dog so that the dog can see it, but it's not reacting to it. Then, you bring that trigger up gradually or you move the dog closer to the trigger gradually and desensitizing many times makes a dog go, "Oh, you've got it covered or I'm not worried about it because it's not too close to me." One of the best ways to desensitize a dog to triggers is to walk the dog behind you. If a dog is on a leash and is at least 18 inches behind you and he's behind you, what's happening is, is that he is not facing the triggers or the dangers, the potential dangers that he thinks are dangers. You act as the leader and the dog walks behind you. You walk with authority and the dog is expected to follow you.
The puppy is, and pretty soon the puppy goes, "Well, I don't need to worry about these things. He's got it covered. He's walking out first and I can relax." So by walking a dog 18 inches behind you, and you know what folks? Many puppies come pre-programmed to walk behind you when they're eight to 16 weeks. They're used to walking behind mom. What I would tell you to do, is to start off, keep on walking that dog behind you and that dog will start to desensitize to the environment around him as he follows you. When I go to India and I traveled to India a lot of my pet product company, I see street dogs wandering around. You know, what's really interesting. I very rarely see any fearful puppies. Why? Because they are following their mothers. They are not leaders and they're not decision-makers either. Their mothers are decision-makers. The mother dog will walk down the street and she expects her pups to follow her. She's not even asking or checking to see if they're coming. A fearful puppy may tend to go behind you and that's natural.
He's going to hide. I see this all the time in puppy class. But what you need to do now is, you actually need to enforce that position. If the puppy starts to come out, "Un-un, get behind me" Then I tell people to take a fearful puppy and to walk it at least four times a day. Don't go in a very crowded area to start. Work up to a crowded area, but go down the street and start to walk like you expect the puppy to follow you. And wherever you're going, you're going to put your back to your dog and you are going to walk like a leader. It's called walking with a purpose. Now, as you start to walk something very interesting is going to happen. If the puppy's behind you and you're walking at a fast clip, that puppy is going to start to be worried to keep up with you and all the time he's trying to follow you, he's desensitizing to the triggers around him. What's going to happen is, he's going to start to relax around these triggers because he's not caring about them. He's just caring about keeping up with you.
In the meantime, again, these triggers are happening all around him and the puppy's becoming to get desensitized. The other thing you want to do, is when you're taking your dog out, is to make sure that the collar is on tight enough or the harness, so they can't slip it. Because the worst thing to do is to take a fearful puppy outside and he slips the collar and off he goes. So again, making sure the dog is behind you and you are on the front line. I always compare this to the military. If I'm on the front line and you're walking behind me, I'm going to take the bullet, right? But if you're walking next to me, you're on the front line too. So, taking a fearful puppy and making sure he's behind you, behind you, behind you, behind you, is a really important thing to do. Walk competently. Don't turn and defer to your dog. Expect your puppy to follow you. Pretty soon you're going to see that puppy start to become less reactive around the triggers.
Now, something else is going to start to happen. His food drive is going to start coming up. He's going to start to be able to take treats. At this point, when he's been desensitized, at this point, now we can start doing our counter-conditioning. And again, counter-conditioning is when I pair a treat with a trigger. How do you do this? What I'll do is, I will get a bait bag and I'll take a bunch of cut up chicken or some real tasty treat. I won't feed my puppy before I do this, I'm going to make sure my puppy is starving. I'm going to walk downtown, dog's behind me, and I'm going to walk up to one of his triggers. Let's say that's a man, and I'm going to say, "Excuse me, would you help me work with my fearful puppy"? It's really rare that a person is going to say, "Oh no, I don't want to help you with your puppy," because everybody loves puppies, right? So you're going to walk up to this stranger and you're going to say, "Would you help me with my fearful puppy? Here, take some food."
You're going to hand them a treat and you're going to tell them to kneel down. Now, the puppy won't approach them and you can encourage the puppy, but never force the puppy onto that stranger. It's really important that the puppy does this on his own accord, that he's not forced into this situation, because then the puppy is going to lose trust in you. What you do is, you have the stranger kneel down. I generally have the person kneel down and to the side and not even looking at the puppy and they'll extend their arm. As the puppy's walking over, give some encouragement, ""Way to go Buster. Way to go. Yeah, that's a good boy." If the puppy takes a treat, ask the guy to feed the puppy again, another treat and another treat. Pretty soon the stranger is going to mean good things. A stranger is going to mean food to your puppy.
I would go in these steps. If I have a really fearful puppy, the first step is, kneeling down and the person looking to the side, not looking at the puppy. Once the puppy is doing that with that stranger and a couple of strangers, now have the people just kneel down, but they're facing the puppy. Once we get good at that, then we're going to tell the people to stand up, but to the side. Now, they can elevate themselves, and elevation can be kind of intimidating to a puppy. The person stands up and feeds the puppy to the side. Now, the person stands up, facing the puppy. The last step is, that they lean over to feed the puppy. That is the most intimidating. If we can get the puppy all the way through those steps, and that could take you guys a couple of weeks to get to that step, that's a long way to come and it works really well.
But, what happens if my puppy naturally has a low food drive? I've done my desensitizing, but the puppy still won't take treats. Well, you're going to do something that might be a little controversial, but it's what you're going to have to do, is I basically don't feed the dog the night before and the morning of when, then I'll set out in the morning and the puppy's usually starving. I'll also do something that could be a little bit controversial, but it works. I'll tell you folks, if you got a puppy and you're running out of time and that 16 week period is coming to an end, what I'm going to do is, I'm going to feed my puppy through strangers only. Doesn't that sound a little bit crazy? But, if my puppy only eats through strangers, pretty soon, my puppy is going to start to love strangers, so I'm going to counter-condition with something other than food. I can do that too, but again, using food and the puppy starving, it's a very rare dog that's going to go for a period of time without eating.
If you get to a day and a half and the puppy's not eating, well, then you're going to have to feed your puppy. Make sure they always have water folks, and make sure your dog is starting this regime with some weight on them. You wouldn't take a skinny puppy and do this with them, and again, if you're still having issues, you might want to contact a canine behaviorist to help you with these issues.
All right. Well, pretty soon this puppy is starting to eat through strangers and pretty soon every stranger he meets, he's going to think they're great things and this is a great way to get through it. There's another thing we do. One of the hardest things that puppies can do is actually they leave your side to approach a stranger.
There's a great game that we do at the Canine Center. It's called the target game, or the say hi game. If I have a puppy that is fearful to approach a stranger, again, never force your puppy to approach anybody. And even when they're kneeling down, they won't approach, I can start to do a game called the say hi game where I grab a Tupperware lid, I smear a little peanut butter on the top of our lid and I do this with the puppy myself and I grab a clicker. If you don't know about clicker training, you might want to look it up, but the click basically marks the behavior as correct and says that a treat's coming. I take a Tupperware lid. I'll hold the Tupperware lid with a little peanut butter, and when the puppy goes over to lick the peanut butter, I hit the clicker and then I throw him a treat away from the lid and then he repeats it. It hits the Tupperware lid. I hit the clicker and I throw him a treat. I then I'm going to quickly turn the Tupperware lid over so he's not going at it for the treat, but he's actually just learning that if he touches his nose to the Tupperware lid, a click comes and then he gets a treat.
Once the dog is starting to do this game over and over and over again, I take out the lid, he touches the lid. I'm going to actually hand this to somebody else in the family, and have them hold the lid. When the puppy touches the lid with his nose, I'll hit the clicker over by me and throw him a treat and then he repeats it. Once the dog is repeating that over and over and over again, I might insert my cue or my command and say right before he does it behavior, I'll say "Say hi." And he goes over, touches the lid with his nose. I hit the clicker, throw the treat. Once he's doing that with people in the house that he knows, I now bring a stranger and have them hold the lid. If the dog loves the game, you can do this in a non-stressful environment.
Get somebody to come over to the house that the dog, doesn't know and do that game and pretty soon the puppy's going to start approaching these strangers and they're desensitizing to the approach because they're more concentrating on the game than they're concentrating on that stranger holding the lid. That kind of target training works really, really well.
I've been working with this family, using the techniques we've discussed today, and I want to see how this dog is doing. This dog's name is Corbin. Let me tell you a little bit about Corbin. I saw Corbin, he's a Carolina dog, like a Dingo Carolina dog. I don't know. It's a new breed out there that I've seen. This dog, they had gotten this as a puppy, Corbin as a puppy and he came to our puppy class, I think in about 10 to 12 weeks old. I saw him in class and this poor little puppy was petrified.
We gave them some advice and really was very slow go. So I said to Ian, who's the owner. I said, Ian, "I think we should do a private lesson and I should come and see you with Corbin and I'm going to give you some things to do." I am lucky enough to have Ian going to be calling in on the show today. So let's get Ian here on the show.
Ian: Good afternoon. This is Ian.
Chris: Hey Ian, it's Chris Onthank from Canine Master Radio. How you doing today?
Ian: I'm doing very well, Chris. Nice to hear from you.
Chris: Nice to hear from you. welcome to the show. I was just telling the audience a little bit about Corbin and how he had come to Dog Gone Smart. You had adopted Corbin, is that correct?
Ian: That's correct. Yeah. We had adopted.
Chris: I'm just explaining on some of the work that we had done and we had done a private lesson and I wanted to follow up and see how Corbin's doing.
Ian: Well, Corbin's great, asleep actually behind me. I'm trying to think of a great example. I guess, just the other day we went out and met one of the neighbors and they've got a really relaxed dog as well about Corbin's size and after a little bit of sniffing they were playing together and hanging out. He's really doing well. Coming up, we've had some guests in the house and instead of, you remember when you came over, his reaction was to hide under the chair and tuck his tail and put his ears back and his nose would run and everything. He was obviously very, very, scared and everything. Now, we've had guests in the home and I wouldn't say that he's welcoming them or anything, but he's not hiding. He's not sitting on his tail. He doesn't tuck his ear. He'll come when he's called. Obedience-wise, he's been doing fabulous as well.
He's really, I think, found some confidence in knowing when he's supposed to sit and when he's supposed to come. Now that he's gotten some routine, he's been doing fabulous. I mean it's like a complete 180, honestly from where he was, I would say five or six weeks ago.
Chris: Wow, that's great. So right after the lesson we had you do some different steps like feeding him through strangers and keeping him behind you and desensitizing him. Did you follow all those steps, Ian?
Ian: I did, I did and Laura really worked with me. I mean, we really worked with him. The come say hi game that you taught us with using a target and everything. He loves that game and using that game, we practice a lot at home. Then we went over, and we've got some basketball courts that are fenced in, and we practiced over there. He really understands it. Then we, started kind of weaning away from the target and everything and after he really got that come say hi and again, his food only coming from strangers and what not, he really came out of that shell.
Also, the walking behind I think really helped him. We were kind of walking and he would, he'd get distracted by a bunch of different things. But then when we started practicing, the rewarding him with the clicking and everything for being behind me, even if it was just a couple of steps, we went very quickly from just a few steps to, the whole length of the backyard to now we do our regular morning walk. He's, I think he's, probably the last two or three walks, he hadn't needed a single correction to stay where I wanted him to be.
Chris: Wow. That's great. I also hear he's coming to daycare regularly, and they say that he's really friendly with people approaching and dogs in the lobby and everybody's seeing a big difference.
Ian: The daycare is also really cool because he has a lot of energy, as young as he is. On a day, you know, the couple of days that have been taken him to daycare, I have a meeting or something, it's really cool because I know that he's having fun because he comes back exhausted and he's happy to see me, which is really cool.
Chris: Cool.
Ian: And instead of playing scared. So no. It's been really my first dog I guess as an adult, and just his transformation has been really amazing to see.
Chris: Well it's what's amazing is, and I was just telling the audience, if we can take care of this before the age of 16 weeks. Now, Corbin's over 16 weeks now. We're still making progress. But I'm really happy that we caught this when we did. Again, during that imprint time we can really make a difference. It's made our whole training team at Dog Gone Smart so happy and proud to be part of the success as well. We thank you for bringing Corbin to us and letting us help you. And you know what's really interesting is, he's a lot happier now, isn't he? He's a lot more happy-go-lucky.
Ian: Yeah, he is. I mean, he wags his tail. You can see him smiling. When Laura comes home, he gets to hang out with me most of the day. But when Laura comes home, he is so excited. I mean it's just, it's really, he's a lot happier.
Chris: Oh, that's great. That's great. Well listen, Ian, thank you so much for being on the show today. I really appreciate it, and we love hearing the success that you've had with Corbin and please come back on the show again and let us know about his progress.
Ian: All right, well thank you Chris very much.
Chris: All right, take care.
Well that's it for today and I really hope you found our show really interesting. I'd love to know your comments about, if you have a fearful dog or have a a dog with some issues and have you joined the conversation. You can always email me at [email protected] and be sure to visit our website at caninemaster.com. C-A-N-I-N-E Master.com. Click on Ask The Canine Master and leave your questions for me. I'm going to do my best to get back to you and I may even have you call into the show with your questions. Send me your videos and your photos so I can see what's going on with your dog and help you master the solution. Follow me on Twitter @CanineMaster and ask me your questions with #AskCanineMaster. That's #AskCanineMaster. Bye for now and see you next time on Canine Master Radio, where I will help you to master the relationship with your dog.
